Why Does Tea Keep Coming Back to Indonesia?

Source: Chagee Indonesia

Have you realized that tea shops are getting more popular in Indonesia? Teazzi, Chagee, Sancha, Tianlala—you name it. Tea shops in Jakarta are already sprouting up. These shops are offering modified traditional tea; you can add fruits, whipping cream, and ice cream, and also add textures like the famous pearl boba, soybean curd, etc. Have you ever wondered why this trend is happening (again)?

Tea was first introduced to Indonesia in 1684, when Camellia sinensis seeds were brought from Japan to Batavia (now Jakarta) by Andreas Cleyer, a German botanist and Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (VOC) merchant. Jawa Barat was chosen as the perfect location for tea trees to grow since it has the excellent altitude for tea cultivation. A century later, the VOC implemented a mandatory tea plantation program called CultuurStelsel (1830). Since then, tea has been embedded in Indonesian culture. 

Source: Febriana Listanti

Back to our modern world, the famous slogan from Teh Botol Sosro, “Apapun Makanannya, Minumnya Teh Botol Sosro." is displayed in many warteg (warung tegal), warung makan Padang, and other restaurants across the country. This catchy phrase indirectly says that tea is a complementary drink for whatever the food is. Tea was a lifestyle, so the big tea company infused our mindset to think that way.

Another unique culture is how tea is enjoyed across Java. The famous ones are Sunda and Jawa cultures, adding sugar to their tea. Have you ever realized that if we go to the Lalapan Sunda diner, we will be offered plain tea, whereas in Java (Jawa Tengah) everything is served sweet. Sunda, as a main producer of tea in Indonesia, was lucky enough to taste the higher-quality tea. They didn’t have to add anything to the drinks since they were very tasty. Meanwhile, in Java, sugarcane was a main commodity. Sugar was initially planted across Java (mainly East Java and Central Java) by the Dutch, and it came to a point where sugar had an economic value, which resulted in the taste of sweetness being a symbol of wealth and success. This culture became a habit and lasted until now.

Tea modification across Java and Sumatera

Historically, Sumatera and Java are the centers of tea consumption in Indonesia. Different cultures bring up different habits to enjoy tea. Moreover, our habits are heavily influenced by generations. For example, Sumatra likes to mix their tea with milk and spices, whereas in Java, tea is a hospitality symbol to your guests. 

1. Teh Talua (West Sumatra): A traditional tea made with brewed tea, sugar, and whipped free-range egg yolk, creating a rich, frothy layer on top.

2. Teh Tarik (Melayu): brewed strong black tea with condensed milk (and sometimes evaporated milk)

3. Teh Kampul (Solo and Yogyakarta): A sweet iced tea mixed with slices or juice of fresh lime, giving it a refreshing citrus flavor.

4. Teh Ginastel & Wagistel (Solo & Tegal): Javanese teablend, an abbreviation for Legi, Panas, dan Kentel (Sweet, hot, thick) and Wangi, Sepat, Legi, dan Kentel 

Drinking tea has been passed down for generations until now; especially, tea is complementary for eating. We go from Teh Pucuk, Sariwangi, and Tong Tji to Chatime and Mixue, and we’re at Teazzi and Chagee now. Yet, this attachment isn't necessarily about appreciating tea itself.

Source: Nandi Wardhana

Tea became an affordable, accessible beverage that accompanied everyday meals, while consumers rarely paid attention to the tea's quality since our finest products are mainly exported to Europe. If we look closely, beverage trends in Indonesia are fueled by Indonesians' drinking habits. Indonesians love creamy, milky, chewy textures (most likely a familiarity from aci) and, most importantly, sweet tastes. The modified drinks are offering those combinations with the additional pairing of current city lifestyles.

Mbok Wening, the founder of Kelontong Poet-Tea, said that “Broadening our palate is a way to diversify our tea knowledge. It doesn't have to be an expensive tea or from premium leaves, but trying to taste different teas across the local warung will expand your taste dictionary about tea itself.” The goal is not to overcomplicate the experience but rather to pique curiosity towards Indonesian tea. That curiosity will grow into an appreciation for tea itself and help build a better consumption ecosystem. Therefore, you will contribute indirectly to help create a better ecosystem for the tea industry.

Acknowledgement

Special thanks to Mbok Wening, founder of Hitatea and Kelontong Poet Tea, for sharing her insights on Indonesia's tea culture and industry through an interview that informed this article.

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